Their adventure began in the vibrant capital of Lima, a city that immediately enveloped them in its bustling energy and rich history.

Their base in Lima was the comfortable Hotel Casa Andina Classic - Miraflores San Antonio, a perfect launchpad for exploring this sprawling metropolis. Lima, they quickly discovered, was a city of fascinating contrasts – the modern flair of Miraflores with its Pacific views juxtaposed with the historical heart beating within the grand Plaza de Armas.

Their initial days were a whirlwind of cultural immersion. The Plaza de Armas itself was a captivating spectacle, the majestic Palacio de Gobierno and surrounding government buildings standing as proud sentinels of Peru's heritage. The intricate details of the Cathedral of Lima and Religious Museum offered insights into the country's spiritual soul, while the tranquil courtyards of Iglesia de Santo Domingo provided moments of quiet reflection.

Mr. and Mrs. Knobby delved deeper into Lima's past, marveling at the baroque splendor of the Convento de San Francisco with its intriguing catacombs and the elegant facade of the Iglesia de la Merced. They made sure to soak in the nation's cultural treasures, spending time at the impressive Museo de la Nacion, showcasing Peru's diverse history, and the renowned Museo Larco, with its captivating collection of pre-Columbian art.

Lima's culinary reputation lived up to its promise. From the zesty freshness of ceviche to the hearty comfort of lomo saltado, every meal was a delightful exploration of Peruvian flavors. While the city's nightlife hummed, the Knobbys knew they had an exciting journey ahead, opting for delicious dinners and restful nights.

After four days immersed in Lima's culture and cuisine, it was time to trade the urban buzz for the dramatic vistas of the Andes. A flight on Peruvian Airlines carried them to Arequipa, the stunning "White City."

Stepping off the plane, the crisp mountain air was invigorating. They were met by Lars, and the true adventure began – picking up their bikes! Their home for the next few nights was the charming Hotel La Gruta, a perfect base to explore this colonial gem together.

Arequipa lived up to its name, its beautiful colonial architecture, churches, and monasteries crafted from gleaming white volcanic stone. Surrounded by the imposing silhouettes of volcanoes like El Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu, the city exuded a sense of history and grandeur. The Knobbys were eager to explore the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, a 16th-century citadel within the city walls, a fascinating labyrinth of colorful streets and hidden courtyards.

The bikes were prepped, the gear was checked, and a sense of shared anticipation filled the air. The open road beckoned, promising a journey through diverse landscapes and unforgettable moments.

Their first day on two wheels was a significant undertaking – a remarkable 259 miles! The ride took them south, with long stretches tracing the dramatic Pacific Ocean coastline. The salty air and the vastness of the sea provided a stunning backdrop to their first day of riding together.

Day two brought another impressive distance covered – 203 miles – with a route that even followed a portion of the famous Dakar Rally! The landscape transformed, becoming increasingly arid as they ventured into the desert. A fascinating and slightly eerie stop was the Chauchilla Cemetery, an ancient burial site containing pre-hispanic mummified remains and intriguing artifacts, offering a tangible connection to Peru's ancient past.

Their destination for the night was the surreal oasis of Huacachina, a place that felt like a mirage come to life. This tiny village, nestled around a small natural lake amidst towering sand dunes, was a truly unique experience. The Knobbys couldn't resist the thrill of a dune buggy ride, soaring over the massive dunes, followed by the exhilarating fun of sandboarding down the steep slopes as the sun painted the desert in vibrant colors. They even recognized the iconic lagoon – it graces the back of the 50 Nuevo Sol note!

The desert landscapes continued as they rode 90 miles towards Paracas. The adrenaline of the dune buggy and sandboarding still buzzed, but the scenery offered new wonders. They stopped at Lagunillas, a viewpoint overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean, the waves crashing against the rugged cliffs. Paracas, they learned, had been near the epicenter of a major earthquake in 2007, a sobering reminder of nature's power.

The next leg of their journey, 136 miles to Nasca, included a memorable detour to the Islas Ballestas. A 1.5-hour boat journey from El Chaco took them to these rocky islands teeming with wildlife – noisy sea lions basking in the sun, comical Humboldt penguins waddling along the rocks, and numerous boobies soaring overhead. It was a fantastic opportunity for wildlife spotting, a natural spectacle just off the Peruvian coast and near the Paracas National Reserve.

But Nasca held another, more mysterious draw – the enigmatic Nasca Lines. From the ground, they were difficult to fully comprehend, but the Knobbys could only imagine the awe of seeing these immense figures and lines etched into the desert floor from above. Created by the Nazca culture centuries ago, these hundreds of geoglyphs, ranging from simple lines to intricate depictions of animals, remained a captivating puzzle.

The journey continued into the highlands, with a challenging 225-mile ride to Chalhuanca / Sanayca. This day was all about conquering elevation, climbing over 15,000 feet! The landscape transformed into dramatic mountains, the roads winding and curving through breathtaking scenery. A unique stop was an animal museum, offering a glimpse into the local fauna of this high-altitude region.

The final push towards Cusco was another demanding yet rewarding ride of 183 miles. The mountain roads continued, offering stunning vistas and plenty of curves. The sight of beautiful snowcapped mountains in the distance was a majestic reward for their efforts. In Cusco, they met Sister K, adding another friendly face to their Peruvian adventure.

Arriving in Cusco felt like stepping into a living history book. This ancient city, once the proud capital of the Inca Empire before falling to the Spanish conquistadors, now vibrated with a unique blend of indigenous and colonial influences. Walking through its cobblestone streets, the Knobbys felt the weight of centuries of history. They learned that Cusco was the oldest continuously inhabited city in South America and the continent's archaeological capital. They were eager to explore the nearby archaeological sites like Sacsayhuaman, Qenqo, Pucapucara, and Tambomachay, eager to witness the legacy of the incredible Inca civilization.

The journey into the Sacred Valley was a shorter but equally captivating ride of 70 miles to Ollantaytambo. Along the way, they were mesmerized by the ingenious Moray terraces, circular depressions used for agricultural experimentation, and the surreal landscape of the Maras salt ponds, a patchwork of shimmering white pools carved into the hillside.

Ollantaytambo itself was steeped in history, once the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti and later a stronghold for the Inca resistance. Situated on the Inca Trail, the town had a palpable sense of ancient energy. The Knobbys admired the impressive Inca fortress and the surrounding mountains, feeling the pull of adventure with the options for horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, and river rafting nearby.

The anticipation for Machu Picchu was building as they embarked on a 102-mile ride to Aguas Calientes (also known as Machupicchu town). The scenery was indeed absolutely breathtaking, the landscape becoming lusher, the mountains more dramatic as they descended towards the cloud forest. The final leg involved taking a train from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes, nestled in the valley just a stone's throw from the lost city.

The day everyone had been eagerly awaiting arrived – Machu Picchu! A taxi and another train ride brought them closer to the legendary citadel. Stepping onto the site together was an awe-inspiring experience. This ancient Inca city, clinging to the top of a cloudy, forested peak over 7,000 feet above sea level, was even more magnificent in person than in photographs.

Mr. and Mrs. Knobby explored the giant stone walls, the old temples, and the luscious green terraces, imagining the lives of the people who once inhabited this incredible place. They even braved the challenging climb to the top of Huayna Picchu Mountain, the iconic peak that forms the backdrop of Machu Picchu, for a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire citadel and the surrounding Urubamba River canyon and Andes Mountains. Visiting the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Moon added another layer of understanding to the Inca's sophisticated culture and beliefs. Returning to their hostal in Aguas Calientes, Hostal Pachacutec, they shared a profound sense of wonder and accomplishment.

The journey back from Machu Picchu involved a train to Santa Teresa, a town on the jungle's edge. Some of the group even hiked along the train tracks! They learned about a devastating landslide that had buried the town in 1998, a stark reminder of the powerful forces of nature in this region. From Santa Teresa, the ride took a turn – 69 miles entirely on dirt roads, with numerous water crossings, leading them to Quellouno. The hostal there was basic, but the shared experience of the challenging ride made it memorable.

The ride to Pisac was another demanding 124 miles on dirt roads through the jungle, offering beautiful mountain scenery. However, the day took a dramatic turn when Chuck was involved in a head-on collision with a bus. Mr. and Mrs. Knobby and the group spent many hours in the jungle, providing assistance and support until Chuck could be safely transported to a hospital. This unexpected event highlighted the unpredictable nature of adventure travel and the importance of looking out for one another.

The journey continued to Puno, a significant ride of 245 miles with a mix of dirt and asphalt roads. The elevation climbed significantly, mostly staying between 13,000 and 14,000 feet. In Puno, they met Fletch, a fellow world traveler, sharing stories and experiences. Situated on the edge of the majestic Lake Titicaca, Puno was a bustling town, known as Peru's folkloric capital.

A day trip from Puno took them on a 41-mile ride to Sillustani, a pre-Incan burial ground on the shores of Lake Umayo, famous for its impressive chullpas, tower-like tombs. The highlight of the day was a tour of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, and a visit to the fascinating Uros Floating Islands, man-made islands constructed from reeds, home to a unique culture.

The ride to Moquegua was another high-altitude challenge, covering 168 miles and again reaching elevations over 15,000 feet. A stop at the Puente Bello archaeological site offered another glimpse into Peru's rich pre-Columbian past.

The return journey to Arequipa was a scenic one, 167 miles filled with twisty dirt roads and beautiful mountainous landscapes. Back in the familiar comfort of Hotel La Gruta, Mr. and Mrs. Knobby felt a shared sense of accomplishment after their incredible riding adventure.

The final leg of the riding portion took them to the renowned Colca Canyon. A 111-mile ride, including crossing a mountain pass at over 16,000 feet, brought them to Chivay and the Colca Lodge. The next day was their last day on the bikes, a 152-mile loop through the Colca Canyon area. The breathtaking scenery was punctuated by the majestic sight of Andean Condors soaring through the vast canyon. Another crossing of a 16,000-foot mountain pass marked the end of their shared riding journey, culminating in their return to Arequipa.

With the bikes safely stored, Mr. and Mrs. Knobby enjoyed a day of rest and exploration together in Arequipa. They revisited the stunning Monasterio de Santa Catalina, taking their time to absorb its history and beauty. They also took in the panoramic views of the surrounding volcanoes – El Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu – under the clear Andean sky.

Finally, it was time to bid farewell to the majestic landscapes and vibrant culture of Peru. Mr. and Mrs. Knobby flew from Arequipa back to Lima, their hearts and minds filled with a wealth of shared memories from their incredible Peruvian pursuit. From the bustling energy of the capital to the serene heights of Machu Picchu and the breathtaking depths of the Colca Canyon, their journey had been a testament to their shared love of adventure, discovery, and the enduring beauty of the world. They left Peru with a deep appreciation for its rich history, stunning scenery, and the warmth of its people, a journey they would cherish together for years to come.